ADBA Calender

ADBSI Clubs & Events Event Calendar   At the current time, American Pit Bull Terrier Clubs are hosting American Dog Breeders Show Inc. (ADBSI) sanctioned shows and weight pulling events nationwide.  Specialty shows listed below are for the American Pit Bull Terrier.    We are interested in sanctioning other breed clubs and in sponsoring their breed shows and events.  Please contact  Patty Bullock at (801-936-7513 for information.    We will work with clubs and breeders to formulate rules and guidelines for shows and events that will be in the best interest of the different breeds.  The American Dog Breeders Association (ADBA) believes in the development and education of breeder judges at all sanctioned events.  We feel that individuals with experience in a particular breed will serve that breed best in judging shows and performance events.  An ongoing educational program will be offered to long standing fanciers of highest reputation in the development of the skills necessary to be ADBA sanctioned judges *SHOWS LISTED ARE A.D.B.S.I. SANCTIONED* CHAMPION & ACE DOGS must pre-register for each show. (Clubs may cancel these classes without prior notice if no pre-entry is made) All Sanctioned Events for the 2006 Season have been listed. If you have questions about a specific event that isn’t listed, please email heather@adba.cc

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Weight Pull Rules

ADBA/ADBSI  WEIGHT  PULL   RULES

 

Weight Pull Rules
(Lst. Rvsd.: January 1, 1999)

Officials and Duties

Judge: Directs weight pull. Settles disputes. Has the final decision. Directs loading of cart and informs scorekeeper of total weight on cart. Also in charge of the cart people. The Judge’s decision is final.

Scorekeeper #1: Keeps record of weights pulled and times of pull for each dog, records fouls.

Scorekeeper #2: Announces results and records winners in each weight division.

Scorekeeper #3: Keeps results of times and weights pulled on the scoreboard for participants and audience.

Entrance monitor: Controls holding area, have dog on deck, harnessed and in pulling position. Informs handlers of weight dog is pulling.

Cart people: Load and unloads the cart and positions the cart for the next pull.

Rules:

1) All dogs must be ADBA registered.

2) No bitches in heat will be allowed to enter. If a bitch is allowed to enter deceitfully, the judge will disqualify that dog and no entry fee will be refunded.

3) No dogs that are aggressive to humans will be allowed to enter. (Muzzled or not muzzled). No aggressive action will be allowed by dogs toward handler or any official during pull competition. If a dog of this temperament is allowed to enter in error, the judge will disqualify that dog and no entry fee will be refunded. (Remember, your dog may be handled by other persons than yourself). Excitement is not to be interpreted as aggression.

4) All equipment used by contestants MUST be checked by judge, prior to use.

5) The weight pull track must be verified consistently level or at incline, by the judge prior to the pull beginning.(Clubs discretion) The decision of how often the track will be checked throughout the competition must be decided at the handlers meeting prior to the pull starting. (This can only be done between weight classes, not in the middle of the weight class).

6) No artificial aids may be used on dogs feet, carpet, etc. (Dog pads are to be clean, free of any stick-em etc.)

7) It will be decided at the handlers meeting if the judge will begin the time by a go or pull command, or if the handlers will begin the time by releasing the dog.

8) Dogs designated as ADBSI ‘Ace’ cannot enter regular weight pull competition. No dog is considered an ‘Ace’ until verified as such in the office of the ADBA either by phone or written verification.

9) Fouls will be called and entrant will be disqualified in the weight class competing in, after three fouls are committed. (example) Foul, Foul, out. Fouls may be committed intentionally or unintentionally.
The following is a list of fouls:
a. Touching the cart or dog in anyway after time has been started.
b. Pushing or dropping dog at the start of pull.
c. Allowing the dog to take hold of or touch the bait while pulling in competition.
d. Aggressive action of handler towards dog during pull competition.
e. Running out of time (taking longer than the 60 seconds allowed to complete the pull).

10) Alibis Unintentional circumstances that make a dog unable to complete a pull. The judge will stop time and instruct the handlers to handle their dog and cart. An example of these circumstances could be: tangling in the traces or harnesses; equipment malfunction; or any outside interference that prevents the dog from completing his pull. Handler may point out a possible alibi, but the judge will have the final decision. ny two alibis=one foul. If a pull is interrupted by a foul or an alibi, the dog will be taken back to the starting line and the pull will begin again. No pull will be valid unless it is an un-interrupted pull. If a dog is disqualified, his last valid pull is his top pull of that class.

11) If the dog completes the pull not on the track, it is considered a complete pull as long as no fouls or alibis are committed.

12) The dogs will be weighed and placed into the following weight divisions:
35 lbs and under …….. Males & females
35 to 45 lbs …………… Males & Females
45 to 55 lbs …………… Males & Females
55 to 65 lbs …………… Males & Females
65 to 75 lbs …………… Males & Females
75 to 90 lbs …………… Males & Females
90 lbs. and over ……… Males & Females
Dogs must be entered in their natural body weight class. If a dogs weight is exactly 45 lbs. the owner may enter their dog in either the 35 to 45 lbs or 45 to 55 lb weight. The weight pull is a test of strength and stamina, not brute strength.

13) There will be seven different weight classes. Separate awards will be given to males and females for a 1st place, 2nd place and 3rd place award in each weight division. 1st, 2nd & 3rd place awards will be decided by most weight pulled per pound of body weight. A trophy award will be given for Most Weight Pulled and Most Weight Pulled per Pound of Body Weight. Sex is not a factor when determining the winner of these two awards. (These weight divisions will give enough latitude that the handler’s expertise will be an influential factor for a winning pull. This variance will allow for experimenting in training in order to bring a dog to its most efficient pulling weight. It will also encourage a handler to work and condition the dog and not bring an “off the yard” animal into competition.)

14) The cart and weight will be certified by the judge. Total weight of cart and traces will be considered as part of the total weight pulled.

15) Traces will not be less than 4 feet, nor more than 6 feet long.

16) Harness must be supplied by owner of the dog. Some clubs may have a harness to sell. It is up to each contestant to acquire their own harness. A well fitting harness is an advantage for your dog. This will encourage handlers and owners to provide their own harnesses made to fit the dog that is pulling and made to weigh as little as possible. Any harness used must be a “standard harness”. Shocks, springs etc. can not be used on harness. No leashes will be allowed to be attached to the dog, collar, or harness while the dog is pulling.

17) Surface – any surface selected by the club as smooth and level as possible. We discourage using a paved surface unless covered, in order to protect the dog’s feet. (Every dog is pulling the same cart under the same conditions and surface for that days competition. Your dog is not competing with other dogs of other clubs for amount of weight pulled. Your dog is competing with the dogs of their weight division under equal conditions for that days pulling awards.)

18) The holding area should be positioned in front of the pulling track, (if site permits) far enough away so the pulling dogs will not be interfered with.

19) Pulling track will be roped off (or otherwise blocked off) 10 feet on each side of track to prevent spectators from crowding pulling track, and distracting the pulling contestant. All dogs should also be kept well away from pulling track.

20) Points will be given for first, second and third place wins. A total of 100 points will earn your dog a designation of an ADBSI Weight Pulling “Ace”. First place: 8 points, Second place: 5 points, Third place: 3 points.
Trophy awards:
Most Wt. Pulled: 10 points. Most Wt. Pulled Per lb.. of Body Weight: 10 pts.

21) Males and females will pull with each other, in the same class. Males will pull first. (The judge has checked all bitches for heat prior to competition.)

22) Starting and finishing lines will marked plainly and be exactly 15 feet apart. Length of pulling surface should extend far enough beyond the 15 feet so that dog may remain on the pulling surface after pull is completed.

23) Dog’s will be called to the holding area where dogs number will be checked..The pull will commence according to the weight divisions. Lightest weight class will pull first.

24) Dogs must pull the cart and weight a total of 15 feet in 60 seconds.

25) In the event of a tie for the Most Weight pulled award, ties will be broken according to the elapsed time it took to complete the pull. Weight first, time second. If this situation happens for Most Weight Pulled Per Pound of Body Weight, ties can be broken by elapsed time it took to complete pull or. B) In the event of a tie due to club running out of weights, additional weights can be provided in any form as long as it is approved by the judge. (Safety and club’s liability is 1st concern when considering this option therefore lapsed time should be used whenever possible to break all ties) Judge will make the decision as to how ties will be broken. Judges decision will be final!

26) The first weight round for all dogs in each class will be determined by the judge after discussion with the handlers entered in that class. The starting weight will be no less than three (3) times the weight of the heaviest dog in weight class, plus the weight of the cart and traces. A pull will not be valid unless it is a completed uninterrupted pull. Fouls or alibis occurring will result in the pull being started over.

27) THE JUDGE will determine the increase in weight to be pulled for each round. THE JUDGES DECISION IS FINAL!

28) Every dog has the right to “sit out” on a weight increase NO MORE THAN 4 TIMES. (Choose to pull at a weight increase or wait for the next weight increase). This need not be done consecutively. “Sit outs- will start after a dog starts pulling in the class..

29) All dogs entered in a weight class will pull to completion (pull out) and awards determined before another weight class begins. Every dog will pull to his/her weight limit, in the class entered, thereby determining the first, second and third place awards. A process of elimination at increased weights determined by the judge is the only way to eliminate dogs until awards can be given. Weight classes can be combined if holding area can accommodate all the dogs in the class. Extra care must be taken to keep records straight when combining classes.

30) Dogs will pull in turn, but no dog will be required to pull without five minutes allowed between pulls. If the rest period is taken, the pull is to continue with dog re-entering as soon as rest period is up. Handler may choose to waive the 5 minute rest period if desired.

31) Dogs will be harnessed after being called to get ready and remain harnessed in the holding area until the dog is called to the pulling track. Dog will then be able to compete. He will be eliminated if he fails to complete the pull, or fouled out, or he will remain at the rear of the line in the holding area for the next pulling round. (Harness may be removed from dog between pulls, as long as contestant does not hold up pull). The cart will be placed with front wheels directly behind and touching the starting line. The round is complete and time recorded when front wheels first touch the finish line.

32) Two handlers may work the dog and bait. (If bait is used, it MUST be held in front of the dog.) Handlers will be allowed in the pulling area, with bait if desired, in any position and as close to the dog as desired, as long as the dog is unable to get hold of bait. Handler will allow no more than one foot of slack in the traces.

33) Baiting of the dog will be allowed by handlers inside the pulling area. No food or live bait will be allowed. (Example of approved bait) Piece of leather hide, tire, frisbee, squeak toy, etc. ANY OBJECT THAT MAY BE DETRIMENTAL TO THE IMAGE OF THE BREED WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED AS BAIT. ALL ITEMS TO BE USED AS BAIT MUST BE APPROVED BY THE JUDGE PRIOR TO THE BEGINNING OF THE COMPETITION. THE JUDGES DECISION IS FINAL! No baiting will be allowed that encourages aggression towards humans, such as hitting the other handler, attack training sleeve, etc. Handlers must remain inside the pulling track area until the pull is completed or time is up. (Some American Pit Bull Terriers need to have bait in order for them to pull. We are not teaching them to go after bait, just sparking their genetic instinct, in order for them to pull. Being an intelligent dog and the fact that most pit bulls are housed on chains, they soon learn just how far their chain will go and when they feel a slight tug of resistance, they will stop pulling, thinking they have reached the end of the chain. This is indeed an obstacle if the dog you are teaching is housed on a chain. Therefore, bait is usually a necessity.) Command pullers are quickly replacing bait pullers, but both styles are allowed.

Ace’s class:

This is a class that is held for dogs that have earned the title of “Ace”. Only “Ace’s” may compete (100 points +) in this class. A minimum of 8 dogs is suggested. Points earned from this class will go towards advancing the title of “Ace” to degrees of “Aces.”

Weight divisions for the Ace of Ace class:
44lbs & under,
44lbs plus to 64lbs.,
64lbs plus and over.,
Dogs must enter their own weight class only! Four (4) “sit outs” are allowed each dog. (“Ace” sit outs are 3 minutes.) Males and females pull together in weight classes. Weight classes can be combined. Extra care must be taken to keep records straight if combining weight classes.
The beginning weight to be pulled will be decided by the handlers and judge. Aces will be competing for Most Weight Pulled trophy award, Most Weight Pulled Per Pound of Body Weight trophy award, along with 1st place, 2nd place and 3rd place award in each weight division. 1st, 2nd & 3rd place awards will be decided by most weight pulled per pound of body weight in Ace class only. Sex of winners is not a factor. (It is a fact that the strongest dog is the one that can pull the most weight per body pound. The focus of the Ace class is to determine the strongest dog of the days competition.)
Most Weight Pulled – 15 points – (trophy award)
Most Wt. Pulled per LB.. – 15 points – (trophy award)
1st place – 10 points (ribbon award)
2nd place – 7 points (ribbon award)
3rd place – 4 points (ribbon award)
A total of 200 points will give your dog the title of “Ace of Ace”. 300 points “Ace of Ace I”, 400 points “Ace of Ace II” etc.

• All dogs must be nine (9) months of age or older to enter A.D.B.S.I. sanctioned weight pull.
• Spayed/Neutered dogs not allowed to enter.
• There is no qualifying pull necessary to enter weight pull.
• Dog must make a complete pull (a minimum of one round at the minimum required weight) to receive points and awards.

* Attention Clubs – To insure consistency and to avoid problems, if your club feels that you can not hold your Ace of Ace class separate from the regular weight pull classes, due to time or any other reason, DO NOT HOLD THIS CLASS!! If this class is held with the regular weight pull, ALL POINTS EARNED BY THE ACE’S WILL BE VOID, and clubs will be penalized.

All of these rules should be consistent in all areas of the country. If any clarifications are needed on the meaning of any of these rules, contact the office of the ADBSI immediately! 801-936-7513

Copyright © American Dog Breeders Assoc., Inc./American Dog Breeders Show, Inc. – All Rights Reserved

Conformation Rules

Basis Of Conformation for the A.P.B.T.

Experience with dogs, horses, human athletes, cattle, hogs and chickens indicates that for everything that lives and breathes there is an army of experts to tell you how that particular thing should look. A lot of these experts seem to lack the ability to quantitatively distinguish one physical attribute from another. Most start with an animal they love and build a standard to fit, but some few are really awesome in their knowledge of which physical dimensions work best.

Those persons whose opinions on conformation have borne the test of years have without exception, come from the ranks of the professionals who use the animals to make money. There are cattlemen who can look at two hundred calves and pick the ten best gainers by looking at their conformation. A year later those same calves bring more profit than their less well conformed brothers. Race horsemen are the most knowledgeable conformation people you will meet. They all like the same basic things in a horse; although they claim to differ greatly, their differences are minute. As evidence, look at the bidding at a yearling sale when a foal of good conformation is brought in and compare it with the prices offered for an equally well bred foal with conformation faults. Good cattlemen and good horsemen judge conformation by what the animal is suppose to do. Cattlemen know from experience that they will lose money feeding narrow shouldered, hollow backed, long legged calves. Horsemen know that shallow girthed, crooked legged horses with straight hocks seldom cross the finish line first, and that’s where the money is. Now, money doesn’t give you good judgement, but it takes good judgement to hang on to it. You can bet that anyone dealing with cattle, horses or Pit Bulls for a long period of time professionally has been exercising good judgment.

Professionals look for an animal that can get the job done. Amateurs, because they have no way to test their theories, wind up feeding their imaginations. So lets get to the point of establishing a conformation standard for the American Pit Bull Terrier. Due to todays laws and social standards, breeding practices are dictated to breeding a dog for looks rather than performance. In the interest of preserving the most extraordinary animal that man has ever created, let’s take a good look at what the American Pit Bull Terrier was suppose to do.

His existence today was not because he was bred only for gameness. He was not bred only for power. He sure as hell was not bred only for his intelligence, loyalty, boldness, round eye, rose ear, red nose or his inclination for dragging children from the paths of speeding trains. He was bred to win. That’s right folks, he was developed for sporting competition.

The professional dogfighters have made him what he is. The professional dogfighters improved him, and now, when the professional dog fighters are gone, the real Pit Bull Terrier will gradually fade away. What we will have is something the amateurs will have preserved that reminds us of the gladiators of old. Thank God for the amateurs. Professional dogfighting is a fast dying occupation. Preservation of this grand athlete that was bred to go to war is going to be in the hands of the amateurs. So, lets look to the profession of the dog in establishing our standard, so that our grandchildren will at least see an authentic physical reproduction of a fighting dog.

If we start with the premise that conformation should reflect the ideal for the dogs usage and that this particular animal was suppose to win a dogfight, we come naturally to the question, what did it take to win? Most of those who have backed their judgment with hard-earned money would agree on the following to some degree or another. 1. Gameness 2. Attitude 3. Stamina 4. Wrestling ability 5. Biting ability Note that only one of these qualities; wrestling ability, is directly related to conformation. One other, stamina may be partly due to conformation, but is probably as much reliant on inherited efficiency of the heart and circulatory system. Some people seem to feel that the shape of the head determines hard bite, but in practice, it seems there are a lot of other factors involved. Earl Tudor said that the great “Black Jack”, who killed 4 opponents in 7 big wins in big money fights, bit hard “because he wanted to bite hard”. That about sums it up. Good biters seem to be where you find them regardless of the shapes of their heads.

When we talk of conformation we really only mean one thing – – wrestling ability. This is the reason the American Pit Bull Terrier varies so much in conformation. His wrestling by itself was not nearly as important as the sum total of gameness, aggressiveness, bite and natural stamina, none of which are directly related to conformation.

Any old-time dogfighter would have told you, “If you’ve got a game dog with good air, he’s worth a bet.” I might add, “if he can also bite, put a second mortgage on the house and take him to a convention.” In other words, never mind what he looks like. However, wiser men than I have said, “The only dead game dogs are dead ones.” Also, “Under certain conditions most dogs will quit.” I believe there’s a lot of truth to that, and to reinforce the fact that conformation is important, remember that conformation and wrestling ability are very closely related and it’s usually the bottom dog in the fight that quits. It’s hard to stop even the rankest cur if he can stay on top. The dog whose muscle and bone structure doesn’t permit him to wrestle on even terms, needs more of everything else to win. He’s always coming from behind. His career is short because each “go” takes so much out of him. So I believe that wrestling ability (and therefore conformation) is a very important ingredient in a fighting dog.

Our Standard of Conformation can not be based on what someone who never saw a dogfight thinks a fighting dog should look like, but should be based on those physical attributes displayed by winning pit dogs of yesteryear.

AMERICAN  PIT  BULL  TERRIER  CONFORMATION

Look first at the overall profile of the dog. Ideally, he should be “Square” when viewed from the side. That is, about as long from the point of the shoulder to the point of his hip as he is tall from the top of the shoulder, to the ground. Such a dog will stand high and have maximum leverage for his weight. This means that standing normally with the hock slightly back of the hip, the dog’s base, (where his feet are) will be slightly longer than his height. Using the hip and shoulder as guides will keep the viewer from being fooled by the way the dog is standing.

Height to weight ratio is critical. Since dogs were fought at nearly identical weights, the bigger the dog you have at the weight, the better your chances. Hence, stocky dogs with long bodies, heavy shoulders and thick legs usually lose to taller, rangier opponents. Nature usually blesses a tall rangy dog with a fairly long neck which is a tremendous advantage in that, it enables him to reach a stifle when his opponent may have his front leg, take an ear to hold off a shorter necked opponent, or to reach the chest himself when the other dog is trying to hold him off. The neck should be heavily muscled right up to the base of the skull.

Secondly, look at his back end. That’s the drive train of any four legged animal. A Bulldog does 80% of his work off his hips and back legs. A long sloping hip is most important. By its very length, it gives leverage to the femur or thigh bone. A long hip will give the dog a slightly roached backed appearance. Hence the “low set” tail so often spoke of. The hip should be broad. A broad hip will carry with it a broad loin and permits a large surface for the attachments of the gluteal and the biceps femoris muscles, the biggest drivers in the power train. The femur or thigh bone should be shorter than the tibia, or lower leg bone. This means that the stifle joint will be in the upper one third of the hind leg. It is not uncommon to see dogs with a low stifle. They are usually impressively muscled because of the bigger biceps femoris, but are surprisingly weak and slow on the back legs because of leverage lost by the long thigh. A short femur and long tibia usually means a well bent stifle, which in turn leads to a well bent hock. This last is a really critical aspect of wrestling ability. When a dog finds himself being driven backward, he must rely on the natural springiness of the well bent hock and stifle to control his movement. Dogs with a straight or the frequently seen “double jointed” hock of many of the Dibo bred dogs, will wrestle well as long as muscle power can sustain them, but if pushed, will tire in the back end more quickly and soon lose their wrestling ability.

Thirdly, look at the front end. He should have a deep rib cage, well sprung at the top but tapering to the bottom. Deep and elliptical, almost narrow is preferred to the round or barrel chest. The rib cage houses the lungs which are not storage tanks, but pumps. The ribs are like a bellows. Their efficiency is related to the difference in volume between contraction and expansion. A barrel chested dog, in addition to carrying more weight for his height, has an air pump with a short stroke. He must take more breaths to get the same volume of air. Depth of rib cage gives more room for large lungs. Shoulders should be a little wider than the rib cage at the eight rib. Too narrow a shoulder does not support adequate musculature but too wide a shoulder makes a dog slow and adds unnecessary weight. The scapula (shoulder blade) should be at a 45 degree or less slope to the ground and broad and flat. The humerus should be at an equal angle in the opposite direction and long enough that the elbow comes below the bottom of the rib cage. The elbows should lie flat, the humerus running almost parallel to the spine; not out at the elbows which gives a wide “English Bulldog” stance. This type of shoulder is more easily dislocated or broken. The forearm should be only slightly longer than the humerus and heavy and solid-nearly twice the thickness of the metatarsal bones at the hock. The front legs and shoulders must be capable of sustaining tremendous punishment and heaviness can be an asset here. The relationship between front and back legs should be, at first appearance, of a heavy front and a delicate back. This is because in an athletic dog, the metatarsal bones, hock and lower part of the tibia will be light, fine and springy. The front legs will be heavy and solid looking. The experienced bulldog man however, will note the wide hip, loin and powerful thigh, which makes the back end the most muscular.

The head varies more in the present day pit bull. More than any other part of the body, probably because its conformation has the least to do with whether he wins or loses. However, there are certain attributes which appear to be of advantage. First it’s overall size. Too big a head simply carries more weight and increases the chances of having to fight a bigger dog. Too small a head is easily punished by a nose fighter and is especially easy for an ear fighter to shake. In an otherwise well proportioned dog, the head will appear to be about two thirds the width of the shoulders and about 25% wider at the cheeks than the neck at the base of the skull. From the back of the head to the stop, should be about the same distance as from the stop to the tip of the nose. The bridge of the nose should be well developed which will make the area directly under the eyes considerably wider than the head at the base of the ears. Depth from the top of the head to the bottom of the jaw is important. The jaw is closed by the Temporal Fossa muscle exerting pressure on the Coronoid process. The deeper the head at this point, (that is, between the zygomatic arch and the angular process of the bottom of the jaw) the more likely the dog is to have leverage advantage both in closing the jaw and in keeping it closed. A straight, box-like muzzle and well developed mandible will not have much to do with the biting power but will endure more punishment. “Lippy” dogs are continually fanging themselves in a fight, which works greatly to their disadvantage. Teeth should meet in the front, but more importantly, the canines or fangs should slip tightly together, the upper behind the lower when the mouth is closed. Fangs should be wide at gum line and taper to the end. Soundness and healthy with none missing. The eye elliptical when viewed from the front, triangular when viewed from the side, small and deep set. In general, such a head will be wedge shaped when viewed either from the top or side, round when viewed from the front.

Skin should be thick and loose, but not in folds. It should appear to fit the dog tightly except around the neck and chest. Here the skin should be loose enough to show vertical folds even in a well conditioned dog.

The set of the tail is most important. It should be low. The length should come just above the point of the hock, thick at the base and tapering to a point at the end and should hang down like a pump handle when relaxed.

The feet should be small and set high on the pasterns. The gait of the dog should be light and springy. Most of the above relates to the skeletal features of the dog. When we look at muscles, from the breeders standpoint, it is much more important to look at the genetic features of musculature than those features due to conditioning. A genetically powerful dog can be a winner in the hands of even an inept owner, but a genetically weak dog needs a good matchmaker to win. Conditioning won’t do much for him. Think of bones as levers with the joints as the fulcrum and the muscles being applied to the power source. The power being applied to the lever is more effective the farther away from the fulcrum it is applied. Muscles should be long, with attachments deep down on the bone, well past the joint. Short muscled dogs are impressive looking but not athletic. A muscle’s power value lies in it’s ability to contract. The greater the difference between its relaxed state and it’s contracted state, the greater the power.

The coat of the dog can be any color or any combination of colors. It should be short and bristled. The gloss of the coat usually reflects the health of the dog and is important to an athletic American Pit Bull Terrier.

Above all, the American Pit Bull Terrier is an all around athlete. His body is called on for speed, power, agility and stamina. He must be balanced in all directions. Too much of one thing robs him of another. He is not an entity formed according to human specialists. In his winning form he is a fighting machine…a thing of beauty. In judging the American Pit Bull Terrier 100 points will be possible for the ideal dog. The break down is as follows.

Overall appearance……. 20 pts
height to weight ratio
overall body shape
health of dog

Attitude of dog………. 10 pts
alertness
carriage of dog

Head and neck………… 15 pts
teeth
eyes
size and shape
of head/neck

Front end of dog……… 20 pts
ribs
shoulders
chest
front legs

Back end of dog………. 30 pts
loin
hip
stifle
hock
back legs and feet
set of tail

Tail and coat…………. 5 pts
length and shape of tail
gloss & length of coat

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